10/24
How long have you been making hats? How did your creative path in this profession begin?
I started selling hats online in 2018. It is often said that to succeed in life, one needs a blend of ignorance and confidence, a sentiment attributed to the esteemed American author Mark Twain. I found myself well-endowed with both qualities.
Accompanied by my daughter Vivian, my assistant, we ventured to Discovery Bay in Hong Kong for an outdoor sale in May 2014. My stall displayed the usual handmade goods, complemented by some hastily assembled headbands crafted just before our departure from Guangzhou. However, we quickly realized that hosting an outdoor sale in Hong Kong's rainy season was far from ideal. Upon reaching our hotel, I switched on the TV to check the weekend weather forecast, only to be greeted by the sight of gale-force winds battering our windows as the sky turned ominously dark. Seeking respite, we descended to the dining room for afternoon tea.
To our surprise, we encountered a procession of charming hats and intriguing fascinators. A wedding was unfolding within the hotel, and the sight of elegant ladies adorned with feathers, crystals, bows, and flowers captivated me. I had found my calling: to craft beautiful adornments for women. I felt like I had arrived home.
The typhoon-drenched sale, unfortunately, did not yield record-breaking profits; the only item sold was the flower-adorned headbands.
Our return to Guangzhou was thwarted by a train cancellation due to floods, forcing us to traverse the border on foot to Shenzhen. There, we waited beneath an overpass for two and a half hours before boarding a bus back to Guangzhou. We reached home at 3:30 am, weary yet ignited with a new vision for my business. Thus began Vivian Blooms, a bespoke line of handcrafted millinery and accessories.
What inspires you when creating new accessories?
I always start with an idea and think about where I want the headwear to go. I do a lot of online research and look at designs that catch my eye. I've learned that this initial work sets the stage for the headpiece's final direction. Blocking and attaching the headwear to the headband are important parts of the preparation.
I don't usually sketch anything unless it's a custom piece. Sketching takes away the thrill of seeing the final product for me. I enjoy the spontaneity of putting all the pieces together and experimenting until everything comes together. After that, it's a careful process of adding the decorations to the headpiece until it's finished.
What part of the job is your favorite?
Seeing the headpiece on a client.
This is for the individuals walking into trunk shows or pop-up shops featuring Event Head Wear. It's for those who are curious about millinery and may feel shy or even timid about making such a special purchase of an Event Wear Headpiece. The table is always eye-catching, piled high with millinery, each one individual and unique. A cacophony of flowers, feathers, ribbons, and bows adorns the hats and headpieces. To a certain extent, it is a style Rorschach test, where people may question what they are looking at and project onto them. But maybe what's more important is who they see when they try it on and look in the mirror.
A client who is either encouraged by the shopkeeper or perhaps a friend will soon be emboldened to put a headpiece on. There is always an immediate reaction to seeing their reflection for the first time transformed by the adornment. Whether positive or negative, a joyful smile emerges or perhaps an awkward "Immediately No." Regardless of the reaction, there may now be a desire to go forward down the path and see how different headpieces make you look and, perhaps more importantly, make you feel.
The wearer should feel playful, beautiful, enchanting, dramatic, etc. The wearer will hopefully experience the headpiece's special power of transformation.
What difficulties have you encountered on your creative path?
Creating headwear has become a passionate pursuit for me. It's a wonderful gift to be able to follow this interest, but it's ironic that this path requires turning inward. Crafting headpieces demands time and energy, spanning days, weeks, months, and now years. Despite being a solitary pursuit, I find joy in creating pieces for group celebrations or important events. Pursuing this passion isolates me from the very places where the headwear is meant to be worn.
What are your dreams?
I've been greatly influenced by my time abroad, which has significantly impacted my aesthetic and creative abilities. My dream is to reintroduce the excitement and joy of hat-wearing to a wider audience in the United States.
When looking for the perfect hat, aim to stand out rather than blend in. For outdoor events, large-brimmed hats are ideal, while fascinators and cloches are better suited for indoor events or those requiring movement between environments, allowing the headwear to shine without the need for a sun-protective brim.
As Frank Sinatra once said, "Cock your hat - angles are attitudes." In other words, creating a dynamic asymmetric effect that contrasts with your face shape, through either the brim or embellishments, is visually appealing. Aim for an upward presentation of the hat.
For a ROUND face shape, like Selena Gomez or Drew Barrymore, a slanting brim is more flattering than a bowler hat. Angular hats like a small trilby or fedora worn at an angle are recommended.
An OVAL head shape, such as Beyoncé or Bella Hadid, pairs well with almost any hat style.
For a HEART face shape, like Scarlett Johansson or Reese Witherspoon, a wide range of hat styles is suitable: caps, cloche hats, brimmed hats, and pillbox hats all complement this shape.
A LONG face shape, seen in Liv Tyler and Sarah Jessica Parker, is best balanced with a wide brim worn at an angle or down across the forehead, which minimizes elongation. A beret's gentle slope is also an excellent choice.
For a SQUARE face shape, like Jennifer Garner, Aniston, or Lopez, asymmetrical styles are ideal. Tilting the hat at an angle is always beneficial.
Lastly, for a DIAMOND face shape, exemplified by Halle Berry and Rihanna, a straight-brimmed hat worn flat across the brow is advisable, as it complements the diamond-shaped head.
JENNIFER KOFLER
The Well-Suited
photographer RICHARD CUMMINGS
milliner JENNIFER KOFLER
wardrobe stylist JENNIFER KOLFER
model MELANIE ELIZABETH
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